Driving at Harriet's speed

Our third day was spent mostly driving at Harriet's tortoise pace, as we crawled our way through the pouring rain from Akaroa on the coast, over flat agricultural land and finally up into the mountains. It stopped raining as we drove up in to the mountains and we ended up camping beside a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains and air filled with birdsong.

Harriet goes to sea - Akaroa

We spent our first night in a caravan park above the town of Akaroa and our second night parked by the beach, free camping with about 12 other vans near the middle of the town - on a peninsula south of Christchurch. Akaroa is actually in the crater of an extinct volcano. It too was effected by the earthquake. Its war memorial is fenced off and the post office is closed, but everything else looks fine. It is a lovely French influenced seaside town. A bit touristy but very friendly and relaxed and wet!

Harriet enjoyed her time on Tony's boat on his Coast up Close tour. 2 hours in the harbour and out to sea looking for wildlife.



Fluffy's job on board is to look for dolpins. She took her job very seriously.

We did eventually see 2 Hectors Dolpins, a quite a few seals, a couple of little blue penguins swimming out off shore, and birds including shags, aka cormorants, but the highlight for me was krill! There were swarms of them floating like red clouds in the water. I always thought they were tiny almost microscopic things but they aren't.

 Tony scooped some up for people to taste. I could not bring myself to eat them as they were alive. Apparently they are very salty but not like prawns.

Even if we had seen no wildlife, the spectacular coastline was worth the trip. Can you see the elephant? We saw several waterfalls.

And it did not rain while we were out on the boat! Amazing! As it started raining when we got off the boat at about 4.30 and did not stop all night and the next day we left Arakoa in the rain.

Christchurch

We four wandering women of a certain age, are having  a wonderful time so far in New Zealand. And it has rained every day! And there have been floods so it is unusually wet. But the rain has not been continual and not enough to really spoil our fun, but...This will the first in a series of posts...


CHRISTCHURCH

After picking up our motorhome - all 7 metres of it - we ventured in to the centre of the earthquaked city.

We walked through the botanic gardens to get to the city centre. Yes - it was a bit wet.

We rode the tram with commentary. The tram driver reckons they have had so many after shocks now that they don't get out of bed for anything less than a 4 on the ricktor scale. This is Regent Street which survived as the buildings are from the 1930s and were built with earthquakes in mind. Art deco and very pretty.

The centre of Christchurch lost around 70% of its buildings in the earthquakes. There are many city blocks that have been bull dozed and stand empty. This is what remains of the main cathedral. The church are having high court battles to get permission to demolish. At the moment it is a rather impressive ruin.

There are numerous empty multi story buildings which is quite strange, apocolyptic. And some very good street art on bare walls.

And  a small really cool, vibrant street of shops made from shipping containers. Michelle and I shared a delicious butter chicken pizza here.

Waiting

Waiting in a bookshop in Melbourne airport
Waiting to cross the ocean
Waiting to meet up with my fellow wanderers
Waiting to escape the mundane
to discover something extraordinary.

Watching the constant stream of people passing by, I can't help wondering - where are they all going and why? Some look tired and frazzled. Some look relaxed and happy. Some are dressed to the nines, tottering along on painfully high heels, others are so casual slopping along in thongs, they should be lying on a beach.

Every single time I am in an airport, there are announcements "Passengers Ling Ping Lee and Sam Low, please make your way immediately to gate 22. Your plane is ready to board." How can people be late when they have obviously already checked in for their flight? Aren't they keen to get on that plane? I know I am? I am here - early - waiting - not wanting to miss out on the promised adventures.

The pain of the ordinary - the promise of anything not.

"Masquerading as a normal person day after day is exhausting." unknown (read on a card in the bookshop)

Introducing Harriet

Harriet is a wise old lady who is well travelled, likes meeting people and seeing new places, and lives life at an unstressed, unhurried pace. She is a good example to us all. Harriet is going to be the tour guide for four middle aged women as we wander around New Zealand for 2 weeks. Our journey begins on Boxing Day!

As you can see, Harriet carries everything she needs on her back. She knows just what she requires to be happy and comfortable, and does not carry any extra unnecessary baggage. I hope we can learn from her as we all pack our backpacks for New Zealand.

You can read about Harriet's namesake here: https://www.australiazoo.com.au/our-animals/harriet/

OTD

OTD - Obsessive Travel Disorder

I have been officially diagnosed with a serious case of OTD - Obsessive Travel Disorder.


Over the last 12 months, not only did I spend 2 months travelling Canada and the US, but there were also numerous weekends away in Melbourne (to visit my granddaughter and her parents), weekends in Hobart for mountain biking and museums, weekends at Cradle Mountain, Maria Island, Mt Field, and my little house in Queenstown (the Tasmanian one - not NZ!) Since returning from Canada in July I have been had 7 weekends away from home! Next weekend I will be bushwalking at Lake St Clair for 3 days.

And - more trips are organised and in the planning!!!

New Zealand in a campervan and walking the Routeburn Track with 3 other wandering women for 2 weeks from Boxing Day.

San Francisco for a few weeks from January 18, to await the birth of my second grandchild!

Central Australia - later in the year as a trip for my little brother's 50th birthday.

And I have so many other travel ideas rushing around in my head! Who knows what will surface next!

"Instead of wondering when your next vacation is, maybe you ought to set up a life you don't need to escape from." Seth Godin

Writing

I am back - and

I write!

 

This month I have had the exciting pleasure of having two short stories published! Yay! This is a first for me and the beginning of a childhood dream to be a writer!

 

Earlier this year, without really realising what I was doing, I wrote two stories about walking in the Tasmanian wilderness.

 

The first one "Nothofagus gunnii Snow Fall" is about a woman walking at Cradle Mountain who trips and falls. The second, "Bessell's Creek" is the true story of four brothers, one of whom was my great-grandfather, who discovered gold in a creek east of Launceston in 1878 and started a gold rush.
 

Both have been published in anthologies of short stories. Please consider buying these books. They both feature Australian writers telling a variety of stories, some of which you may not like, but some of which you might love. I hope, you at least enjoy my stories and I hope they are the first of many more to come.

You can purchase the e-book version  "Bessell'sCreek" in Stew and Sinkers  for $2.80 which is a 25% discount  by using this coupon code - TV48F which expires on 16 October 2013.  click on http://www.stringybarkstories.net/The_Stringybark_Short_Story_Award/Bookshop.html The printed version is also available at the same link for $14.95

 

'Nothofagus gunnii Snow Fall" was highly commended in the Tasmanian Writer's Prize, run annually by Forty South publishers. You can purchase it at http://www.fortysouth.com.au/writers-market/book/183 for $14.95

 

Farewell

Today was our last day of fun and freedom. The weather was perfect for our last day of riding at Whistler. We had a blast riding from 10am until the lift stopped at 8pm, with breaks for food and drink of course. Lost count of the number of runs we did - must have been at least a dozen in the main park of the bike park, and one long run from the top of the Village Gondola all the way down Whistler Mountain. We are both going to be stiff and sore - well, we already are.

Gloria has been cleaned, ready for packing in to her bike box tomorrow. When we get home she will have a well earned rest and a fork service. She has performed brilliantly throughout the trip - not one single problem, not even a flat tyre. And Jill managed not to fall off! Can't say the same for Joel, but only a few scratches and sore hands for him.

So - tonight is our last in our little home on wheels, ie the motorhome. First thing in the morning, we drive back to Vancouver to return it and pack and begin the long flights home.

This is where we have been:

 It is really only a very small part of Canada but we have travelled almost 10,000km through 3 Canadian states and 2 US states. And we have seen a lot of mountains, wildlife, rivers, lakes and it has been a wonderful experience. Thank you for coming along on my wayward wander.

Farewell Canada.

Gloria is on top of the world

Today, along with the normal bike park riding, we did the Top of the World Ride. Talk about epic riding, like alpine hiking on steroids! Rough and rocky trail but stunning views!

This involved 3 chairlift rides to the top of Whistler Mountain at 2182m, followed by 1507m of vertical drop as we rode back down to the village. It took us 2 1/2 hours to do, mostly because we kept stopping to admire the views, but it was a long trail and we did get a little lost lower down on the hill, below the alpine area.

View from the third chairlift:

Views from the top:
That is the top of the chairlift.

 Looking down in to the valley. Whistler in between and around the two lakes.

 

Joel near the start of the ride:

 

 

 Gloria on the way:

Beautiful!

Beaver tail for lunch today

Canadians eat beaver tails!
Deep fried with cinnamon and sugar. I had mine with apple as well. Yum, yum, yum!!!

I thought they'd be tough and leathery, but, no, they taste like donutty pastry - which is what they actually are - shaped like a beaver's tail. Very delicious.

Normality

Three days left of fun and freedom. And, then it is off to the airport for the long journey home and back to normality - whatever that is.

'Normality' - I have decided is very subjective. What you might consider 'normal' I might consider abnormal, even unhealthy and undesirable. Or maybe, your normality is normal and healthy for you, but not for me. Who, really, can be the judge of someone else's normality? We are all different.

However, I believe it is very important for your own sanity and peace to become aware of what really is essential and important and fulfilling in your own life. Too many of us lack this self awareness and are too easily blown this way and that way by society's 'normality', by media advertising and consumerism, by the idea that bigger is better, and when we have more we will be happier.

I have decided to redefine my 'normality' so that I can live more simply and live more. The journey never ends!

Poutine?

A Canadian favourite - basically it is chips and gravy with lumps of white cheese curd that does not have much flavour. Sometimes they use mozzarella instead of curd which I think tastes better. I have never really been a fan of chips and gravy, but if the gravy is good it's not bad.

Dinner with a view

What a difference 6 weeks makes! Last night Joel and I took the Village Gondola ride up Whistler Mountain to have dinner at the Roundhouse BBQ. When we first came here at the end of May, it looked like this:

 Now - it looks like this:

And our dinner view:
All you can eat roast hog (pig) and ribs, veges, salads and deserts - YUM

 Whistler and Green Lake in the valley below:

Dinner guest:

Good little Chipmunk - ate his dandelion greens first, and then helped himself to a chip under a table.

Whistler!!!

Today, Saturday, Gloria is basking in the sunshine, leaning up against the picnic table, having a well earned rest day after 3 days of full on riding. Here are a few shots of her exploring Whistler Bike Park.

The cool thing, well - one of the many cool things - about Whistler, is that your lift ticket gives you access to not one, but three lifts! The Fitzsimmons lift takes you to the top of the main bike park. The second lift then takes you to a higher section - Garbonzo -which has heaps of trails that link back up to the lower part of the park. And then you can also take the Village Gondola from the very bottom up past the Garbonzo zone and there is another trail that takes you back down to Grabonzo and Fitzsimmons and all the way down. And all for the one price.

But wait! There's more! For a small extra cost, from the top of the Village Gondola, you access a fourth lift and go up even higher, to where there is still quite a lot of snow and there is quite a long trail called Top of the World, which takes you back down to the other bike park trails. We will be doing that one before we leave.

Sea to Sky

After our four days on Vancouver Island, we returned to the mainland. Vancouver from the ferry - looking more than a bit smoggy.

 

We have now come full circle back to where we began. On the first day in Canada, when I collected the motorhome, the first thing we did was drive via the Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to Whistler. It poured the whole way. I was jet lagged. It required all my powers of concentration to drive on the right side of the road. I knew there must have been some good views along the way but I saw nothing! This time it was very very different!

Shannon Falls

 Kite boarders at The Spit at Squamish with Shannon Falls in the background.

Brandywine Falls

Whistler!!! Mostly riding for the last week of freedom and summer!!

Whale watching

My first whale watching tour turned in to an epic 9 hour day. It was supposed to be a 6 hour tour but our captain was determined to find us some whales. Ten hopeful tourists piled into an open zodiac boat for the day.

The latest fashion in whale watching attire! Very elegant!  We all had to wear a survival suit - kind of like an all body life jacket. In the end I was glad to be wearing it as not only did we get sprayed with sea water numerous times, but it was very cold!!

Our route took us via the famous Inside Passage where all the cruise ships take their passengers up to Alaska. We saw lots of rugged heavily forested mountains and rocky shorelines.



 

It was hard to keep the camera level as the water was very choppy at times and the front of the zodiac was bouncing up over the waves and slamming down back in to the water. Joel and I sat in the front row. "Try and sit in the front row to get the best views," advised Leigh. The front row also gets the wettest and roughest ride. Thankfully, the ginger tablets Jay gave me worked and I did not get sea sick and actually enjoyed the rough ride!



Shortly after WWII the numbers of salmon began to rapidly decline. The suspected cause was large numbers of orcas (killer whales). It was thought that there were thousands of them migrating annually through this narrow channel. A group of local men got a WWII machine gun set up on this headland, aiming to reduce the orca numbers. They practiced shooting it, aiming at birds. Finally, they were ready - and that year the orcas never came!  (Somehow they knew not to come that year!?)

Then more scientific research was done and it was discovered that there were only several hundred orcas, not thousands, so obviously there was another cause for the salmon decline. And, thankfully, the gun was removed.

 

 

Transporting logs, It takes quite a lot of skill for a tug boat to tow a raft of pine logs, all tied together, about one third above water and two thirds below.

 

They also use tug boats to tow large barges all the way to Alaska, loaded with freight and supplies.

 

 

Lunch time - at Port Neville, on a remote part of the mainland, only accessible by boat. This used to be the post office and store.

 



 Our orange zodiac boat tied up to the wharf for lunch.

Before lunch we did spot some bald eagles, seals, and a bear on the shoreline.
After lunch we finally started seeing whales and porpoises. (Sorry - not very good photos)

A pod of Dall's porpoise feeding and diving under and around our boat. They are sometimes confused with baby orcas due to their black and white colouring.

 

One humpback whale feeding probably on small herring.

 Down he goes for a deep dive of 6 to 8 minutes.

 

 

Finally - orcas!! I have seen humpbacks before as they migrate past Devonport every year, but never orcas, so I really wanted to see them.

 

 At first, just a solitary male feeding. Then a group of about 6 swimming along in perfect unison. Then the male again. Our tour leader was constantly communicating with whale researchers in the area, and knew which orcas we were seeing. We were not allowed to get closer than 100 metres. The orca has quite a different dorsal fin to the hump back. It is long and upright. And when it goes down for a deep dive it does not put its tail up high in the air like the humpback does.

 

Nine hours and 208 nautical miles - epic!!! Exhausting but worth every mile and wave!