Tuesday, June 30, 2026

Done!

Our final day on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path began with a walk down the narrow road from our b&b to the path.
Then several hours of cliff top walking, chatting with a couple we'd met several times along the way, also doing their final day, sweating up steep climbs, marvelling at the extreme forces that folded these rocks. 

After lunch we turned around the final headland toward Poppit Sands.
Some road walking took us inland to St Dogmaels, the official end of the 300 kms.
The Ferry Inn is well located, near the end marker. 

It is like a tardis because it looks small from the road but inside there is room after room and several decks with water views. A great place for a celebatory drink and a well earned meal.


Saturday, June 27, 2026

Walking and not walking

Day 16

I walked alone. The hot, humid weather is playing havoc with S's breathing.

My walk began in fog which hung around until lunch time.
There might be a dramatic view of wild cliffs, but I didn't see it.
Eventually, a line of islands appeared with a flashing light on one. The Strumble Head lighthouse.
My view as I ate my lunch.
The fog disappeared after lunch. It was hot in the sun as I toiled up hill after hill. I found a tiny bit of shade beside a monument commemorating the 1797 invasion.

Mid-afternoon, I entered Goodwick passing houses and walked a metal-caged walkway above where vehicles line up to board the ferry to Ireland. Maybe it would be cooler in Ireland?
The Ocean Lab cafe raises money for marine conservation. I bought an icecream and watched locals swimming at the beach.
A large mosaic to commemorate that invasion.
One last walk around a headland took me into Fishguard where we stayed for four nights.

HEAT DAY

Thursday, 25 July. A day of unprecedented heat. 35 degrees forecast for Fishguard which is in one of the tiny corners on the map below that are still white, outside the warning areas.we decided to rest. We did go out, to see the invasion tapestry and to a cafe. But no air-con anywhere except the supermarket. By 11am, it was too hot. We retreated to our cottage with no air-con or fans. Would we boil or bake?
Am I really in Wales? Wearing a skirt?

Fortunately, the downstairs living room stayed a reasonable temperature and we found things to watch on tv. It took a little longer in the evening for our upstairs bedrooms to cool down enough to sleep. There was an almighty thunderstorm at midnight.

DAY 17

A lovely day of walking and varied scenery. Lower hills. Still warm. We took a bus to Newport to walk back to Fishguard. Sheryl left me after lunch and took a bus back while I contined alone.

The old harbour at Newport.
Medium height cliffs. Easy walking. 
Cwn-yr-Eglwys (valley of the Church) Once big enough to hold 300 people, most of the church has been lost to the weather due to severe storm damage and erosion. Only one end of the building remains on the edge of the beach.
Pwllgwelod beach where ate lunch and parted company.
The track did become a bit more challenging but clouds helped keep the temperature manageable. In December, 2025, the coast claimed the 24 metre long guard boat, the Resolute. She is firmly stuck on the rocks.

I arrived in Fishguard at low tide.

DAY 18

Another solo walk. Sheryl bussed to meet me at new accomodation.

A group of local women headed into the sea to swim as I sweated ny way up the first steep climb.

Clear skies, dramatic cliffs and a stiff wind to help me stay warm, but not too hot.



Tomorrow is the final day of walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Will Sheryl be able to do it?
























Happy birthday (not mine)

 Knock and the door shall be opened....


A day off from walking. Happy birthday to Sheryl.

St David's Cathedral. Most churches are located in prominent places, designed to be seen. Not St David's. It is hidden in a hollow, not visible until you are right there.
St David lived in the 6th century and is the patron saint of Wales. It was said that two pilgrimages to St David's Cathderal were worth one to Rome.

The ceilings! Beautiful, and very high.



The floor tiles.



A few other details.





It is a stunningly interesting place. An active place of worship and a place of peace. They also have a great cafe where we enjoyed lunch.

Then we caught a local bus to our next home at Fishguard. It was stifling with no air-con and full of school kids. But our cottage was lovely and just up the hill we found The Royal Oak for an excellent dinner. Relaxed, characterful and historic. This pub is where a peace treaty was signed in 1797, following the last invasion of Britain by a foreign country, the French.


Local women played their part, armed with pitchforks.
In the library there is an amazing tapestry that tells the story. Created to celebrate the 200th anniversay of the invasion, it is very well done. No photos allowed so here is the signage downstairs.
As we were about to leave the pub, we noticed muscians arriving in the front room, so we stayed another hour listening to them play folk music.
A fabulous end to Sheryl's birthday.