The heart of Scotland

Everyone tells us how beautiful the Cairngorm Mountains are, and they are - in a soft rounded way with broad farmed valleys

scattered with swathes and pockets of mixed woodland trees 

and native Caledonian pines.

One day we drove around and over the mountains to visit Balmoral Castle. The King wasn't home and his minions only allowed us to walk around the gardens and grounds near the castle and enter the ballroom of the castle. No photos allowed inside.

The Loch Garten visitor centre and bird hide was excellent. Nestled amongst pines, with feeding stations in the trees outside the windows and live cameras filming nearby goshawk and osprey nests with chicks. You can just see the nest at the top of the tree about 100m from the centre.

Small birds leave when the squirrel appears.

The live screens on the osprey nest above the viewing slots.

Woodpeckers chased each other around the tree fighting over the food.

The closest we are likely to get to the capercaille, a large black and red bird that lives in pine forests, eating the needles.

The old pack horse bridge at Carrbridge.

A newer bridge over the River Spey, built in 1754. We walked three short easy flat sections of the Speyside Way, a long distance path that follows the river all the way to the coast.

Sheryl walking under the train line at Aviemore on our first Speyside Way walk of 9.6 kms.

We rode the funicular railway up the Cairn Gorm mountain. There is a ski field here in winter and they are now building a small mountain bike park. The valley below is filled with trails, shared by mountain bikes and walkers.

Six days, a few showers, mostly good weather, plenty of wildlife sightings, walking every day without crutches, albeit on very easy mostly flat paths, but getting there. One more Scottish week left. I do love this land.

Mulling

A week on Mull - where the sheep own the roads and are in no hurry at all

Cows cool off in the sea

And deer wander up your driveway in town.

The sea is coloured in blues and aqua against white sands. The island of Iona floats in the peace of its ancient spirituality, one of the earliest entry points of Christianity into Scotland. We took the ferry to Iona to walk up its one hill and have lunch in a pub.

We stayed in a cottage on the hill at the top of the colourful harbour town of Tobermorey, brought a hire car over on the ferry.

The lighthouse still flashes to keep boats safe.

No ferry to Erraid. No cars either. We walked across the sand bar at low tide.

The view over toward Iona and Mull, as we ate lunch sitting in front of a row of coast guard cottages where Robert Louis Stevenson lived for part of his childhood while his father built lighthouses offshore. Erraid features in his book, Kidnapped.

Mull's inerior is of mountains, glens, lochs and foxglove.

There are a few castles and grand houses

A few standing stones and one full neolithic circle complete with Celtic drummers.

Woodlands, waterfalls and streams (although some were dry due to lack of recent rain)

Sheep on beaches

Narrow roads and frequent stops for oncoming traffic to squeeze past

And waiting for sheep

With the most awesome, jaw-dropping scenery around every bend. My photos do not quite convey how stunning this island landscape is.

Cake, essential on Sheryl's birthday.

It did rain on our first morning and then on our last full day, but that was fine. We'd seen what we wanted to see, done a few short walks (without crutches), enjoyed the scenery, the bird life and watching an illusive otter fishing for his lunch. We were satisfied and the land really needs the rain.