Walking and not walking

Day 16

I walked alone. The hot, humid weather is playing havoc with S's breathing.

My walk began in fog which hung around until lunch time.

There might be a dramatic view of wild cliffs, but I didn't see it.

Eventually, a line of islands appeared with a flashing light on one. The Strumble Head lighthouse.

My view as I ate my lunch.

The fog disappeared after lunch. It was hot in the sun as I toiled up hill after hill. I found a tiny bit of shade beside a monument commemorating the 1797 invasion.

Mid-afternoon, I entered Goodwick passing houses and walked a metal-caged walkway above where vehicles line up to board the ferry to Ireland. Maybe it would be cooler in Ireland?

The Ocean Lab cafe raises money for marine conservation. I bought an icecream and watched locals swimming at the beach.

A large mosaic to commemorate that invasion.

One last walk around a headland took me into Fishguard where we stayed for four nights.

HEAT DAY

Thursday, 25 July. A day of unprecedented heat. 35 degrees forecast for Fishguard which is in one of the tiny corners on the map below that are still white, outside the warning areas.we decided to rest. We did go out, to see the invasion tapestry and to a cafe. But no air-con anywhere except the supermarket. By 11am, it was too hot. We retreated to our cottage with no air-con or fans. Would we boil or bake?

Am I really in Wales? Wearing a skirt?

Fortunately, the downstairs living room stayed a reasonable temperature and we found things to watch on tv. It took a little longer in the evening for our upstairs bedrooms to cool down enough to sleep. There was an almighty thunderstorm at midnight.

DAY 17

A lovely day of walking and varied scenery. Lower hills. Still warm. We took a bus to Newport to walk back to Fishguard. Sheryl left me after lunch and took a bus back while I contined alone.

The old harbour at Newport.

Medium height cliffs. Easy walking. 

Cwn-yr-Eglwys (valley of the Church) Once big enough to hold 300 people, most of the church has been lost to the weather due to severe storm damage and erosion. Only one end of the building remains on the edge of the beach.

Pwllgwelod beach where ate lunch and parted company.

The track did become a bit more challenging but clouds helped keep the temperature manageable. In December, 2025, the coast claimed the 24 metre long guard boat, the Resolute. She is firmly stuck on the rocks.

I arrived in Fishguard at low tide.

DAY 18

Another solo walk. Sheryl bussed to meet me at new accomodation.

A group of local women headed into the sea to swim as I sweated ny way up the first steep climb.

Clear skies, dramatic cliffs and a stiff wind to help me stay warm, but not too hot.

Tomorrow is the final day of walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Will Sheryl be able to do it?