Wgakes! First stop - whale watching at the Head of Bight lookout.
It is Southern Right whale calving time and this eastern corner of the Great Australian Bight is where they come to give birth. A series of boardwalks and viewing platforms grants access an incredible wildlife experience.About a dozen whales including calves, so close to the bottom of the cliffs. I could hear them calling as well as blowing water when breathing and slapping the water with their tails and rolling over.
They had me mesmerized for over two hours. The cliffs views were good too.
They had me mesmerized for over two hours. The cliffs views were good too.
I free camped with about 30 other groups near the gate to the Head of Bight. Almost 2 kms from the highway. You might think The Nullarbor is remote, and it is, but the traffic never stops. All through the night trucks continue to serge across the plain. And there are lots of grey nomads. But it doesn't feel crowded. And the views go on forever.
Sunrise over the plain.
Our second day on The Nullarbor was interesting. There are eight roadhouses on the Nullarbor, no towns. The old Nullarbor roadhouse is now a museum piece.
Our second day on The Nullarbor was interesting. There are eight roadhouses on the Nullarbor, no towns. The old Nullarbor roadhouse is now a museum piece.
The current Nullarbor roadhouse. Each roadhouse has a different feel, some newer, some quirky, all with plenty of business from trucks and caravanners.
There are four lookouts along the Bunda Cliffs. The first was the best.
My lunch spot was equally as spectacular. Maybe a little too close to the edge on the right?
After lunch, the day took an unexpected turn. I was waved down by a man on the highway. His campervan had broken down and he had no phone reception. For 45 minutes, nine or ten other drivers had zoomed past, not stopping to help. I wasn't sure if I should stop but I did. He turned out to be a fellow Tasmanian, about my age. We discussed what to do. He had a tow rope and Sally has a tow bar which I have never used. I didn't know if the old girl was capable of towing a vehicle almost the same size as her. But she did it! Without any effort, she towed him about 30 kms to the next roadhouse where I left him to find assistance.I then returned to my lunch spot to go for a ride and camp for the night, a little further away from the cliff edge.
I woke to a damp morning, light showers. The drive took me inland, by numerous roadhouses - no problem keeping Sally's fuel up. Border Village has a big kangaroo.
After Border Village, Sally was inspected at the WA border, checking for fruit, vegetables and honey which I had already consumed. Then near Eucla roadhouse, there is the old telegraph station being buried by the dunes. It is close to a beach.
Eucla is on top of an escarpment. The road didn't feel like it climbed but it must have done. After Eucla, the road drops down to follow the base of the escarpment for a long time before climbing again just past another roadhouse.
Straggly trees began to increase. Mounds of wattle flowered.
Cocklebiddy roadhouse has Bruce and Samantha, two wedgetailed Eagles, living in a large aviary. They had been injured by collisions with trucks. Samantha lost an eye and Bruce can no longer fly properly, so they could not survive in the wild.
Trees began to increase as we drove further west. We stopped at a roadside camp along the 90 mile straight. A dozen other vehicles spread amongst the trees.
It had been raining at Caiguna roadhouse.After Caiguna, we began the longest straight section of road in Australia, the infamous 90 mile straight. To be honest, the whole road across the Nullarbor is a series of long straights connected by the occasional slight bend. It is all a bit of a novelty for this Tasmanian driver used to constantly twisting and turning roads.
Day 8. Leaving the camp go to the last roadhouse- Ballagonia.
At Ballagonia roadhouse, there is a small local history museum. It contains a piece of Skylab, the space station that fell to earth in 1979, leaving a trail of debris across WA. I just had to touch something that had been in space.I enjoyed my Nullarbor crossing. The weather was good, Sally behaved perfectly, even rescuing a fellow traveller and the sights were interesting. Next stop - Kalgoorlie.
At Ballagonia roadhouse, there is a small local history museum. It contains a piece of Skylab, the space station that fell to earth in 1979, leaving a trail of debris across WA. I just had to touch something that had been in space.I enjoyed my Nullarbor crossing. The weather was good, Sally behaved perfectly, even rescuing a fellow traveller and the sights were interesting. Next stop - Kalgoorlie.
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