Friday, July 22, 2016

Older than the pyramids

Orkney is seriously ancient. It has been inhabited for at least 6,500 years and has the remains of human buildings to prove it.
We knew, before we came, about some of the major neolithic sites, such as Maes Howe, a chambered burial tomb from 2800 bc, which we did a tour of where they take you inside through a low tunnel. It is all stone walls inside, with later Viking graffiti!
But we did  not know that there are many other similar tombs here. Some are not uncovered and just look like grassy mounds in a paddock. Others you can crawl into without payment or supervision.

This is the Ness of Brodgar which is a village and worship site, currently being excavated on an ongoing basis. We did a tour with one of the lead archaeologists that was very interesting. I found that I got a lot more out of these places with a guided tour. I would not really have known what I was looking at otherwise, nor would I have fully comprehended just how old these buildings are - 3,300 bc.
Here is one of the information panels to help you out just a little.
Literally just down the road, is the farming village of Skara Brae - 3000 bc, older than the pyramids.

Each house has a stone dresser opposite the door, a central hearth, built in stone beds that would have been filled with heather and grass and animal skins for warmth and comfort, and a little room off the side connected to an underground drainage system aka sewerage and indoor toilets!
Each house was connected to the others via passage ways, some covered.
Entering the replica house, surprisingly spacious inside.
You have heard of Stone Henge in the south of England. Well, it is quite possible that the stone circle movement (whatever it was, they will never be entirely certain) actually started in Orkney. There are several circles here, some more complete than others.
The Ring of Brodgar - 104 metres wide - second largest circle in Britain.
 The Stones of Stennis, all that is left of a slightly smaller but still large circle.
Travel forward a few thousand years to Viking era - circa 600 to 1200 ad. The Broch of Gurness - a Viking settlement.

 Sheryl contemplating life as a Viking, in the main tower residence of the village.
 The remains of another Viking settlement, the Brough of Birsay, which was a monastry and village on an island. It is believed that Magnus, of the St Magnus Catherdal was brought up here.
 Remains of a circular church from the Viking period.
One of the tour guides told us that most of the Viking archeaology and history is not visible as it is still being lived on top of, many of the farms  are still being worked  on the same locations.

But there is a published and translated history of the Viking era called The Orkneyinga Saga, written between 1192 and 1206, that tells the story of the conquest of Orkney by Norway and its powerful Earls.

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