Back on the Path

Back on the South West Coast Path in England. What follows is a very brief summary of our first week. I'd need a book to tell you everything.

The plan is to complete the final section of 333kms from Plymouth to Poole over the next three weeks. In 2019 we walked the first two thirds of the 1014kms from Minehead to Plymouth.

Day 1 - It was a wet, wild and windy start with gale force winds all day. 13kms to Wembury.

Day 2 - 18kms from Wembury to Kingston. 

We dropped the board to summon the ferry man for the Yealm River Crossing.

Here he comes.

The Great Mewstone

Only a couple of light showers and a very stiff breeze as we walked along cliff tops.

We managed to walk across the Erme River at low tide where there is neither a ferry nor a bridge. If we had missed the tide we would have had to do an extra 13kms inland around the estuary.

About 2kms from the river, we stayed at the Dolpin Inn built in 1540.

Day 3 - 15kms. Cold with drizzle that eased by lunch time. Some very steep high climbs. A pretty tough day of strenuous walking.

Burgh Island in the misty distance.

Waiting to climb aboard the sea tractor to access Burgh Island. It drives through the wstet across a sand bar to the island.

The luxury 1930s hotel on the island was for guests only. They wouldn't let us in. So we ate at the tiny Pilchard Inn built in 1337. There is nothing else on the island.

After lunch we summoned another ferry at the Avon River.

We walked to Hope Cove just past the Thurlstone Arch where our bnb host drove us to her heritage listed 17th century farmhouse.

Day 4 - 13kms in perfect weather. Undulating cliff tops with beautiful views, from Hope Cove to Salcombe. A relatively easy day.

Yachts racing at Salcombe.

Salcombe is a charming town now full of rich boating types but quite relaxed.

Day 5 - A longish day, just over 18kms of rocky tracks and beautiful views that began with yet another ferry crossing at Salcombe  and ended at the village of Beesands.

Start Point lighthouse. Dozens of ships have been wrecked along this section of Devon's coast. Today, seals played in calm waters.

It was not so calm in 1917 when most of the village of Hallsands was swept away during a storm. A few ruins are just visible at the base of the cliffs where there was once a beach and two rows of cottages.

Day 6 - Almost 19kms from Beesands to Dartmouth with a couple of steep climbs. Looking back down over the 2km long Slapton Ley, a long shingle bank.

It was late afternoon when we finally reached the mouth of the River Dart. 

Dartmouth, with its naval college and lots and lots of boats.

Day 7 - Rest day. A day to wash clothes and rest the feet by taking a cruise boat up the river, a double decker bus to Paignton and a steam train ride back to Dartmouth. Very cold but sunny day. That big reddish building is the naval college.

Expecting a strenuous walk tomorrow.  Good night...

Easter in England

Blossom covered trees and daffodils in green fields.

Day one - from the airport to Stonehenge. 5000 years of ancient religion. They manage the large crowds well. I was more impressed than I expected. The site is much larger than just the stone circle.

Day two, Easter Friday, was spent exploring Wells Cathedral, the adjacent Bishops Palace with its moat, high walls and beautiful gardens, and enjoying lunch in the sunshine in the town square. A relaxing, calming place.

One of three scissor arches that support the roof. We attended an Easter service in the afternoon to hear the choir sing. Beautiful acoustics. 

The Bishops Palace and gardens

The swans in the moat pull a string to ring a bell for food.

Day 3 - We walked about 20km from Wells where we are staying to Glastonbury. It was supposed to be a 13km walk. We were lost but then we found our way and climbed the Tor.

The ruins of Glastonbury Abbey. Was King Arthur really buried here?

Day 4 Easter Sunday - a drive through Cheddar Gorge, a walk around its cliff tops and a very good cheddar cheese toasty for lunch at the place where cheddar cheese originated. The tourist cafes were heaving with people and the traffic was bumper to bumper by lunch time on Easter Sunday.

Day 5 - Montacute House dates back to 1601. Its original owner, Edward Phelip  was a lawyer with connections to King James I and other royalty. 

The view from the Long Gallery, a room that stretches for 52 metres across the entire length of the third floor. A place to walk and exercise  on rainy days.

We seem to have recovered from jet lag and not caught any nasty covid disease on the long flight over, so tomorrow we head to Plymouth to begin walking - the real reason for this trip.